tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42550369889107624202024-03-13T11:08:52.425-07:00Knives of MaltaCustom knives and tools made in Alaska. Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-49277802564415551382014-07-28T18:12:00.001-07:002014-07-28T18:12:43.096-07:00HiatusRight now my workshop is collecting dust, but not in the industrious way it normally does. I have not spent an hour at my workbench since February. After a lifetime of thinking about it, I joined the military in my mid thirties. After three years of patience and persistence I was offered a position with Air Force Combat Search and Rescue based out of my home in Alaska. This demands all my time and attention to be successful. I will return to knife making when time allows but for now I'm honing myself to be a member of this elite group.Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-57737477469841976832014-02-10T15:33:00.000-08:002014-02-10T15:33:10.989-08:00Fancy Dakota, orderd by a brother built by a friend. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Dakota Lite, etched, oiled and ready for war. </td></tr>
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Being raised a farm boy and hunter most of my designs and projects tend to concentrate more on function than appearance. But, there is a part of me that longs for <a href="http://www.hollandandholland.com/" target="_blank">Holland and Holland</a> style bespoke elegance, the gentlemanly art of British field gear. <br />
An old friend said his brother was heading to Afghanistan and wanted a nice knife to send him over with. Being a support unit it is less likely that they will see combat so I wanted to make a show piece that is still deadly if the need arose. I chose my previous Dakota model that I made for V Lazy J leather, as I'm very fond of it. As you rarely see a belt knifes blade, the leather and handle need to stand out to show off a bit. I don't own a $250k shotgun, but know one when I see it and wanted to give this soldier a bit of a show piece. <br />
The original Dakota was .25" thick and very heavy the Lite model is 5/32" to drop a bit a of weight and make the balance more centered. <br />
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It is a rather large handle at almost 5" long with a deep finger guard. I chose birdseye maple and brass pins for the handle with a red fibre spacer along the spine. To really make this stand out I went to a technique of tobacco pipe making and used a stain to make the grain really pop. <br />
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After shaping and sanding up to 220 grit the handle is dyed black. Now here is the trial and error portion, to get the grain back requires sanding with patience. Because you need to predict the final look before you get there. Sand off to much before getting to your final grit and the dyed grain will be lost as it doesn't completely penetrate the wood. By lightly sanding the dye will remain in the grain and add contrast to the wood. I start at 220 for quick removal and move up to 600 (or 1000) depending on the wood type. <br />
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This has been sanded to 400 removing much of the dye but adding contrast to the birdseye pattern in the maple. This will also show and frustrating scratches or divots that were previously missed. I have had to completely sand off the dye and start over on pipes due to missed imperfections. Be patient and this can add a whole new level of wow to projects. <br />
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Sanded to 600 and ready for the Tung oil finish. Oil is not the most durable finish but is easily retouched and with heavy figured wood it will add a 3D effect if enough layers are applied. This handle had seven layers of oil applied which took 8 days to achieve. The handle is polished with steel wool of different grades between each layer to remove imperfections. <br />
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After the oil has cured, a buffing compound is used to bring the luster up and remove any small scratches from the steel wool. The final and nerve racking step is to apply a hard carnauba wax with a high speed buffing wheel to add further protection. Do not rush this step or try to do this if you are not focused. I honestly wait until I'm in the right mood to do this. The wheel can grab the knife from your hands and launch it across the shop or accidentally brushing the metal spindle can ruin weeks of work in an instant. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H87EDduTlA8/UvlcK9CQg6I/AAAAAAAABns/wimflnpEniI/s1600/IMG_4258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H87EDduTlA8/UvlcK9CQg6I/AAAAAAAABns/wimflnpEniI/s1600/IMG_4258.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a>Sheath was made in house out of vegetable tanned 8oz leather. Because of the gloss finish on the handle the snap has a leather cover under it so the finish won't be marred. The leather is waxed to improve water resistance and give it that soft feel that good footwear should have. <br />
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I'm not comparing my work to fine British craftsmen like those at H&H, but they definitely inspire the work I do. <br />
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Ordered by a brother, built by a friend, just how it should be. Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-57828840471545422122013-12-20T15:50:00.001-08:002013-12-20T15:50:04.159-08:00Every Day Carry (EDC)I had the joy of spending my early years of life on various ranches and farms in South Dakota and Minnesota. Part of growing up was getting your first pocket knife, a monumental day that I can still remember and still have the knife. Everyone carried a knife, it was the most essential tool you could have (days before multi-tools). Folding knives were the standard and still are for the most part due to ease of use and ability to disappear when Sunday suits were worn. Then a few years back a friend and loyal KoM supporter gave me a magnificent little fixed blade knife made by <a href="http://www.dawsonknives.com/" target="_blank">Barry Dawson</a> called an EDC. About 7.5" overall 3" blade and slim enough to fit in the leg pocket of Carhartts. All the benefits of a fixed blade yet small enough to disappear. I've skinned moose, goats, and bears with that little knife and done millions of chores with it. So this is my attempt at making a similar concept of a light, strong, small knife that you can tote along all day and not get in the way or make a big show. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nearly finished knife with hamon line clearly visible. G10 micarta handles and brass pins.</td></tr>
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I started with 1/8" thick 1095 HC steel but instead of standard heat treatment, used the Japanese method of differential heat treating and clay tempering to increase the flexibility of the thin blade while maintaining a wear resistant edge. I used the same method on my "Dakota" model but took more time etching and polishing to produce a stronger hamon (different color on the blade produced when the steel cools at two different rates simultaneously. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I use high temp refractory cement as a clay coating material. Someday<br />
I'll develop my own family secret recipe as they do in Japan. </td></tr>
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These blades have just been heat treated and quenched in oil. 1095 becomes non magnetic at its critical temperature (@1450 f) and then plunged into warm oil. Here you can see the hamon line where the clay covered the blade (darker) and slowed the cooling process. The blades are then tempered to relieve the stress of rapid cooling and produce the correct Rc hardness. <br />
I temper all my blades two times at two hours each round with a cool down in between. <br />
These blades are only hard on the bottom third toward the cutting edge. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leather work and a fine 12 year old blended <br />
refreshment.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leather work ready for stain and stitching<br />
for the trio. </td></tr>
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The finished set of knives with black leather sheaths and high contrast stitching. The finished knife is about 7.5" long with a 3.5" cutting edge. The handles are G10 micarta with a slight red and black contrast and unseen in this image the handles have bright red fibre spacers between the blade and handle and brass pins. I hand finished these blades to 400 grit and etched them pretty heavily as they are working knives that should be used daily. Traditional Japanese blades with a hamon are sanded to 1000 grit and polished to a mirror finish. That's a lot of time and sanding which equates to a much higher cost with no performance gain. I'd rather have someone spend $150 on this custom knife and not feel guilty about scratching it rather than spend $1500 on a knife that never gets used. But if you want to spend $1500, I wouldn't turn it down. <br />
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-20688359057979497382013-12-16T17:25:00.000-08:002013-12-16T17:25:33.246-08:00PrideTwo types of knives are produced in my little shop, things I dream up and figure out how to sell later and bespoke items that I work with clients (always referrals) to make happen. All my products are handmade by me, Malta. They start life as an idea sketched out and end up as a functional tool. This one was quite a challenge and almost didn't. But, when finally finished, it struck me, I was proud of this simple tool. Life is like that sometimes, you want to give up but keep at it and in the end it all works out. I hope the new owner enjoys his Christmas present as much as I had making it. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished with time to spare. If you know cabinets, you'll recognize the backdrop.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Roughed out with grind lines marked</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough grind. The top knife is for a retired operator, the bottom <br />
is for a Vietnam Vet. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cleaned up after tempering</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh out of heat treatment and oil quenched in my shop</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handle blocks, Cocobolo for this one and canvas micarta for the<br />
other knife, both with .25" stainless pins</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handle roughed out on the band saw</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handle fitted, file work on the spine with <br />
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All my knives get custom made sheaths that are produced in house (either kydex or leather). This one is 8oz vegetable tanned cowhide from a local supplier in Anchorage. My leather comes in big odd shaped sheets and ends up like this. Some knife makers don't provide sheaths for fixed blade knives and I think that sets the wrong tone of "I don't expect you to use this pretty knife." Not here, these are not museum pieces but affordable field grade knives. The sheaths are cut, wet fit, and finished. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddle stitching and contact cement hold these together. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost done, just need wax and polish. </td></tr>
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Final specs on this one. 1095 HC steel, 9.5" overall, 4.5" cutting edge, Cocobolo handle, stainless pins, leather sheath. I hope he likes it as much as I do, this one just fits right in the hand and is scary sharp already but could be honed even more. Thanks to <a href="http://brokentoothbrewing.com/" target="_blank">Broken Tooth Brewing</a> for tasty beer, I'm not sponsored but from one craftsman to another, well done! Now to get the other four on my bench out the door so I can start experimenting with hatchet making.<br />
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-30354866019665891282013-10-25T17:17:00.001-07:002013-10-25T17:17:26.904-07:00Making "Dakota" I originally hale from South Dakota, and so do the last 8 generations of my family. My family is all still there along with many good friends. Every time I go home for a visit it takes me a couple days to get used to how nice people are and the sense of community that exists in their actions. A month ago a huge unseasonal storm hit and devastated the ranchers that eek out that tough living on the plains. One ranch that got hit hard is owned by a man I do a bit of business with and also share some mutual friends. In typical Dakota fashion he asked for a simple favor, he needed to know how much business he could count on before buying some needed equipment. No, not donations, or handouts, he asked for more work. That says a lot about the character of man and reminds me of my grandparents that survived those lean years of the dust bowl. <br />
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My idea was to give Jay of <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC4QFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FVLazyJCustom&ei=kQdrUpzlNIH9igLuqICgAg&usg=AFQjCNEsaPnBwlQ9KHru6RyV1ZIRYVBpvw&sig2=zCTEoRs1XeI1n5w_FaYf-w&bvm=bv.55123115,d.cGE" target="_blank">V Lazy J Custom Leather</a> more work to do (he asked for it) by making him a knife and he could make the sheath and auction the rig off to raise some funds for his herd. I don't make tactical knives as that's not my world but wanted to give it a try with a heavy piece of 1075 I had in the shop. I had the supplies and just had to throw the effort in to get this rolling. <br />
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My inspiration was the Tom Brown Tracker, but with some modifications and personal preferences. Here is my initial sketch up pad where all my ideas start out. you can see the erased lines where I changed the design around. I then make a paper template and transfer it to the steel. This piece of steel is 1075 HC that is 1/4" thick and 2" tall. <br />
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Here is the blank after it is flattened, cut out and cleaned up. I start with a portable bandsaw for the rough outline, then a big bench grinder to shape it more. I finish with a couple different belt and drum sanders to finalize the shape. <br />
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On the left you can see the outline for the grind lines and the finished product on the right. Again grinder, belt sander, then files and sand paper to get the grind bevel correct. <br />
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This beast was first normalized in my kiln to reduce the stress of grinding and shaping the steel. Then it got a light coat of clay to keep the de carbing in check and then a heavier layer. This is Japanese style differential heat treating. It allows the steel to cool at two different rates simultaneously. So the edge is hardened but the spine remains slightly softer to allow for some flexing and reduce the chance of a complete failure under stress. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Specs: 9.75" Long 4.5" cutting edge, 2" tall at the widest, 1/4" thick and weighs 13.2 oz</td></tr>
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I added some heavy texture to the micarta handles to aid in grip and three tubes to allow the owner to place a lanyard where needed. As this knife is a heavy work grade tool (matte etched finish) I wanted to make sure it worked before leaving the shop. My test was this, it had to shave then chop a 2x4 completely in half across the grain and still shave. Yup, it passed and I have the bald spot to prove it. <br />
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Here it is all cleaned up and ready to ship to South Dakota. Now for my selfish part, I haven't seen Jay make a sheath yet so now he has to and then I can bug him to make my clients really cool matching rigs. <br />
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Lacking much creativity this week I dubbed it the "Dakota". Not fancy but tough as nails and designed to get the job done with no excuses. Yup sounds about right. I might make a lighter version this spring if there is interest....<br />
<br />This will be up for auction through <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC4QFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FVLazyJCustom&ei=kQdrUpzlNIH9igLuqICgAg&usg=AFQjCNEsaPnBwlQ9KHru6RyV1ZIRYVBpvw&sig2=zCTEoRs1XeI1n5w_FaYf-w&bvm=bv.55123115,d.cGE" target="_blank">V Lazy J Custom</a>--find them on Facebook. Great leather work and world class customer service! He even makes old school rigs for wheel gunners like me. Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-84222514060020690062013-10-22T15:41:00.000-07:002013-10-22T15:41:08.604-07:00Handmade Bench ChiselsI enjoy dabbling in wood working because this allows me to justify owning more tools and making a mess. The essential tool of any woodworker has to be chisels. Which seems odd as many youngsters don't know how to use them and have never owned one of any quality. Most commercial chisels sold today are garbage, a waste of precious resources. I wanted a fine set for my shop but realized I couldn't afford to buy a hand crafted set. So why not make one? I decided on bench chisels with a 6" blade with a 5" handle, 01 tool steel from <a href="http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/" target="_blank">New Jersey Steel Baron</a> and basic sizes of 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 2" (this one is 1075). As with most things in life I don't let a lack of knowledge stop my endeavors, learn by trying. Everything but making the dowels was done in my shop including heat treating of the steel. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic shapes cut out of bar stock 2" is .25" thick <br />
the rest are .187"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough profiles ground and tangs rounded</td></tr>
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The handles caused me a lot of grief in the planning phase as I don't own a lathe. My solution was to go with Japanese style handles with copper ferrules. <a href="http://www.bellforestproducts.com/" target="_blank">Bell Forest Products</a> sells exotic hardwood dowels, so round wasn't an issue. I cut them to the length I needed then made a jig for my drill press. This is easy by drilling a hole in a 2x4 scrap and then cutting it in half with a pull saw. The kerf allows me to clamp the dowel on my drill press and make a hole for the tang. <br />
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How to make a ferrule? I looked high and low and could only find one offering from<a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30021&cat=1,41504" target="_blank"> Lee Valley Tools</a>, but the shipping was outrageous to Alaska (as usual) so plan b. I discovered that 1/2" copper pipe caps have exactly 5/8" opening which is a size of plug cutter I own already. Used my dowel jig again and the plug cutter to form the piece that will fit inside the ferrule. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excess wood removed and ferrules fit</td></tr>
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The pattern on the blades was from the clay coating placed on the steel for heat treating to keep the steel from de-carbing. I liked it so didn't clean them up except for the cutting edges that are polished. </div>
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As with any first time project I learned a lot and this won't be the last set I ever make. Now I have my own set of pretty chisels! </div>
<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-14767781023167116532013-10-11T16:20:00.000-07:002013-10-11T16:20:24.680-07:00Gentlemanly PursuitsThis is part one of an idea I started a year ago and am just wrapping up part one. I enjoy outdoor pursuits of almost every kind and like most outdoors people I long for those days when hunting required tweed vests and fishing was done with bamboo flyrods. It seemed each item was crafted by an expert and it was just as much fun to maintain your gear as it was to use it. Oh, yes I'm nostalgic for a time I never lived, the days of WDM Bell and Jim Corbett. Which brings me to the idea of a gentlemen's combination for the field; a matched set of bird and trout knives and tobacco pipes. I've always enjoyed upland bird hunting, it is a great way to spend a day. You can talk while working a field and catch up with friends while pursuing game over a fine hound. It's not about tromping mountains or carrying giant packs through swamps, its a relaxing pursuit and the tools should reflect this effort. They should be crafted to the task and be of the finest quality. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shorter three are the bird and trout knives. 3/16" 01 tool steel, all being fit with brass bolsters and choice wood. The longer blade is for a Major sorting out some nefarious fellows abroad. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Etched blades and olive wood handles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wet fit 8oz leather belt sheaths</td></tr>
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I did everything on these knives in house. I cut and ground the blades by hand, heat treated in my kiln. The olive wood was cut from larger block and hand fit and finished to each knife. The sheaths were made from a piece of vegetable tanned leather, just a big piece of cowhide. In these days when many "custom" gun and knife makers are nothing more than assembly men for factory made parts I think it is important to be truthful of who makes what. These are all mine, even the minor flaws that no one but me will ever see. <br />
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Now it is on to making the matching pipes to complete these sets. It just so happens my oldest friend ordered this set, now we just have to make time to pursue birds together again. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished, 6 coats of tung oil on the handles to build up depth and a wax finish over the top. Double etched blades to create a pattern on the steel. 8.5" overall with a 3.5" cutting edge. The leather is finished in oil and wax as well. I despise tools that are hard to maintain, a little regular maintenance will keep this set going for a couple generations. </td></tr>
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-14720058254209877492013-05-21T20:49:00.002-07:002013-05-21T20:49:27.710-07:00TestingI have a few fail safe testing measures in the shop for any new knife (RC testing, cutting, edge testing, NEVER use as a pry bar test) but then I need field testing. I'm only one man, who usually works in an office, so I seek qualified testers from time to time. As luck would have it my friends (and friends of friends) contain some very qualified testers (Marines, Operators, PJ's, Sappers, CSAR) and other professional grade testers. I figure if you get paid very little for volunteering to dangerous work it should come with the occasion perk. Knives of Malta likes to offer that perk.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcwXs1LOpkE/UZvFgyE54zI/AAAAAAAABeQ/3TFzOt96zaY/s1600/IMG_0369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcwXs1LOpkE/UZvFgyE54zI/AAAAAAAABeQ/3TFzOt96zaY/s320/IMG_0369.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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As someone who spends many days in the back country of Alaska hunting, and exploring I have a great admiration for the Air National Guard Combat Search and Rescue Units stationed here in Anchorage. Their motto is "So that others may live". I have made a few knives for various members of the unit and used their feedback to create this knife. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zJLSUT3UX94/UZvFh_q6MFI/AAAAAAAABeY/V_3-UmYdNeg/s1600/IMG_0378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zJLSUT3UX94/UZvFh_q6MFI/AAAAAAAABeY/V_3-UmYdNeg/s640/IMG_0378.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1095 HC, etched 4" blade 8.5" overall, G10 Micarta handles with aluminum tubing</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xxGoKGgydos/UZvFi4xqWUI/AAAAAAAABeg/GRgfx2kY65E/s1600/IMG_0379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xxGoKGgydos/UZvFi4xqWUI/AAAAAAAABeg/GRgfx2kY65E/s320/IMG_0379.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
I wanted to keep the knife strong, light and with a slim profile. You can see in the picture at the right the handle is only .5" thick with most of that being hardened steel. I made the pins myself out of aluminum with .25" holes for lashing. This kept the weight down and blade forward balance. Large finger and thumb grooves were added to stop forward motion of the hand. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcJkkfxMv7Q/UZvFqkq3C3I/AAAAAAAABfI/HitP-Ko0jNM/s1600/IMG_2707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lcJkkfxMv7Q/UZvFqkq3C3I/AAAAAAAABfI/HitP-Ko0jNM/s640/IMG_2707.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bushcraft Alaskan in O1, cord wrap handle, thumb serrations, etched blade. 9" overall 4.5" blade. </td></tr>
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<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-62356379979107160622013-03-26T16:54:00.000-07:002013-03-26T16:54:09.083-07:00The joy of quiet tools
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-url60MNgFWE/UVIzE5fmqDI/AAAAAAAABSQ/IjFtyn9Quos/s1600/7FF2768F-7050-4B88-A482-4AE0EDBCA081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-url60MNgFWE/UVIzE5fmqDI/AAAAAAAABSQ/IjFtyn9Quos/s640/7FF2768F-7050-4B88-A482-4AE0EDBCA081.JPG" usa="true" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first draw knife 3" cutting edge 1095HC, great for carving and shaping. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A young man received a cordless screwdriver for his birthday and was so excited he had to call his dad and brag. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“Dad my wife bought me a cordless screwdriver for my birthday. Isn’t that great!”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“That’s great, but all my screwdrivers are cordless son.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve been a begrudging convert to the wonderful world of hand tools, those magnificent items that don’t run out of power unless you get tired of working. Like most people hand tools frustrated me to no end. This is a result of two common reasons: 1. I had poor quality tools 2. I lacked the knowledge of how to maintain and use those tools. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Power tools are easy, you can use a mitre saw or drill press without knowledge of electronic engineering or how wood grain affectsthe cut. The difference between an orbital sander and a handplane is that one requires practice and knowledge to use effectively. Practice at using a tool? That is an absurd notion. Quality hand tools can cost triple their powered counterparts, so why bother? Ahhh, the experience! The satisfaction of knowing your tools, their strengths and weaknesses and how to get the most out each one. I noticed with power tools, the danger is immense: eye, ear, respiratory protection is constantly required. Smooth a board with a belt sander and you’ll be cleaning the shop for week, use a plane and you can listen to Howlin’ Wolf at low volume and clean up is a few minutes of sweeping. The gentle swoosh of sharp plane iron is a welcome change from the terrible whine of belt driven machines. </span></div>
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To create something, is to understand it. </h2>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My first hand tools were made on a whim. I thought draw knives were just neat looking, so I made one. It has taken me hours of practicing to read wood grain and control my depth of cuts, but now it is much faster at finesse shaping than a sander or saw. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sDUWZnn8Wg/UVIzEzrwZ7I/AAAAAAAABSQ/gskvG3l9aog/s1600/7F6625B8-BE5B-46C9-B945-3DE6946D436B.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sDUWZnn8Wg/UVIzEzrwZ7I/AAAAAAAABSQ/gskvG3l9aog/s400/7F6625B8-BE5B-46C9-B945-3DE6946D436B.JPG" usa="true" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kiridashi in 1095HC 60rc paracord wrap</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next was my first Kiridashi, a very simple Japanese utility knife. I had a few inches of left over steel from a project and so it came to be. It sat on my bench unused for some time, until I had to cut leather for a sheath, my fancy utility knife was botching the job so out came the tiny simply knife. BAM! It cut far better than a razor, making my life safer and easier. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My next journey is to make my own chisels as they are the heart of any shop. I still love my bandsaw, but realize that sometimes things are much easier if it stays quiet. </span></div>
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-44918964715059126462013-03-11T16:37:00.000-07:002013-03-11T16:37:33.085-07:00Nostalgia<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s19nuhqX2zc/UT5i0kyLAEI/AAAAAAAAAxw/6_gsKTERsyQ/s1600/63068E6F-F5FD-429F-8189-FB03B16055E5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" psa="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s19nuhqX2zc/UT5i0kyLAEI/AAAAAAAAAxw/6_gsKTERsyQ/s640/63068E6F-F5FD-429F-8189-FB03B16055E5.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ah, breakup is finally in the air in South Central, Alaska despite a snow storm all weekend long. The past two weeks have found me in the shop but working on my house and not on knives. I finally got some time in the shop late last night and became a bit nostalgic when I came across these images from the past summer. The knife was made based on some equally historic pedigrees. The handle is a ode to Scagel Knives who made the leather and antler handles famous during the first half of the twentieth century and continue to draw investors today. The blade is Scandinavian inspired with the grind but I added a secondary bevel, a sharper point and some file work versus a standard Puukko design. The overall design is a to be a tool and not a weapon, with the cutting to be done in drawing motion and not a stabbing or pushing motion. </div>
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<br />The knife was made for someone who did something remarkable, they vouched for me. To me this was a very generous act and one that seemed a bit out of place today. I have come across many people who say they will help you out, or do something for you, only to find out that their word isn't all that valuable. So when someone staked their hard won reputation on me, it meant alot. Saying I trust you is one thing, to trust someone else with your reputation is another. At least that is what I was raised to believe and will continue to pursue in my lifetime. Maybe its just glorified "golden age" thinking, but reputations used to make people honorable and trust worthy, not contracts written by hired gun attorneys. So this was my small way to honor that, a nostalgic knife for a nostalgic act. </div>
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<br />Knife Specs:</div>
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Blade: 4" 1095 HC RC 58-60 (8.25" AOL)</div>
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Handle: Black tail antler, nickel spacers and leather washers</div>
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Sheath: 7oz leather (pouch style)</div>
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I just wanted to post a photo of my backyard in the summer. View from Flattop just behind Anchorage, It won't be to long now. </div>
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-53019926472588688452013-02-21T17:28:00.000-08:002013-02-21T17:28:03.413-08:00This is getting serious
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4akJIEYQ1Kk/USbIcd0M0KI/AAAAAAAAAmw/dl4vTtC2xq4/s1600/4E364F26-C9CE-42AE-8E2C-93A52DBE1662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="323" mea="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4akJIEYQ1Kk/USbIcd0M0KI/AAAAAAAAAmw/dl4vTtC2xq4/s640/4E364F26-C9CE-42AE-8E2C-93A52DBE1662.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every Day Carry design in 01 steel with micarta handles with my favorite carry load a 125gr JHP .357mag. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same design in 01 with Bocote (back) and Wenge handles and mosaic pins. <br />
Sheath are kydex wrapped in leather. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Wow, it has been a crazy year since Knives of Malta created its first truly custom knife. It was a very rough Warncliffe design heat treated in a homemade forge. Since that knife I have created dozens of blades and continue to get better with each one. This has only been possible from the amazing support of my friends and family. Thank You. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A certain unnamed individual that finds themselves in harm’s way quite often has really pushed the idea of Knives of Malta since I cranked out the first blade a year ago. Now I’m getting contacted by individuals that have access to any equipment they desire, and would like to add one of my creations to their kit. Wow, things are getting serious. As a result all of my knives will now be heat treated in a scientific kiln in the shop and each series will be tested to ensure proper Rc hardness is achieved. Up to this point my heat treating has been rudimentary but very successful with high carbon low alloy steels, this will also allow me to expand the steel types utilized. This also allows for larger knives to be created and uniformly heat treated. My inaugural run will be a slightly larger set of the Bushcraft Alaskan in 01 steel. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Knives of Malta will also be introducing our first set of handmade bench chisels and drawknives this year for those discerning woodworkers that believe tools should be something your grandkids fight over. The more I use hand tools in wood working, the more I’m addicted to them. Try it, they are exceedingly quiet to use. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My handplane collection keeps getting bigger. </td></tr>
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-55384639514379373032013-02-04T15:00:00.001-08:002013-02-04T15:00:18.048-08:00A need unmet
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">8" Cleaver in 1095 HC etched blade, because I can. </td></tr>
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It's always about the money, except when its not. As an ardent capitalist and business student this is an equation I struggle with constantly. As an American the bottom line is always on my mind, especially with my precious free time. But my equation into the value of tool making was broken, I was only looking at ones and zeros, red and black. The most important piece of the equation was missing until just recently. </div>
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My friend was relating an ambitious project he has in the works and stated, <strong>"It's not about if I want to make this happen, I have to make this happen." </strong>This project of his is so important that he has to get it out into the world and make it work. It isn't just a balance sheet, it is much more than that. How often do we approach an idea this way? That we feel it is up to us to turn concept into reality and not for economic value but for our own experience. If profit is the result, so be it, but the success or failure is not in the money, it's in the experience of creating. </div>
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This resonated deeply with me and I knew the minute he said it, it was what I had been failing to account for. Currently making tools is something I have to do. Could I simply buy equivalent tools? Yes, but you can't purchase the experience of honing your own skill and increasing your knowledge through hard work. To awake in the middle of the night with an idea that needs to be produced and following through from blank page to useful implement is a value far beyond a few dollars. </div>
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Turning theory into reality is what separates arm chair cowboys from bronc busters. It's not always about the money, sometimes it's just to know you can. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Destructive testing a KoM cleaver with a 4" blade in 1095 steel, so far it has resisted destruction. </td></tr>
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Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-84030813395714747932013-01-14T22:30:00.001-08:002013-01-14T22:35:34.980-08:00Bar stock to Blade part 3 of 3<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough shaped handle scales dry fitted</td></tr>
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In the last segment I covered grinding and heat treating of the blades, now we need handles, sheaths and a final edge. Not a lot of photos from these steps as I was rushing to meet my deadline and didn’t stop to take a lot of pictures. After heat treating the blades I clean them up starting at 220 grit and working
up to 1000 grit. This is a tedious process and if you rush it, it
shows. Once the blades were up to 1000 grit polish, they get a buffing
on a sisal wheel with #2 polishing grit. I’m not going for mirror finish
but wanted some shine.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glue up of handles with epoxy</td></tr>
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For handle material I chose G10 Canvas Micarta in Green/Black layers that produce a camo style pattern when the handles are shaped. Handle design are traced on the micarta, then tape the handle scales together with double sided tape and rough them out on the bandsaw. Then clean them up on the belt sander. Drill the holes for pins once this is complete and attach them to the blades using epoxy and ¼” stainless pins. Let the epoxy cure for at least 36 hours. Since these are going to be abused and used, the handle isn’t going to be pretty in the classical sense. The goal was to ensure a positive grip, even with cold wet hands or gloves. I like highly polished wood and bone handles, but not when I’m quartering a moose in the dark and it’s snowing.<br />
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The knife with the recurved tip is going to a war zone, and however unlikely it will be used in close quarters combat, it had to be considered. This is where the heavy choital and thumbrest come into play along with an aggressive grip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kydex initial sheath molding </td></tr>
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Per customer request, the sheath was to be Kydex with a large molle lock. I used heavy .09” kydex and molded it in the press. Gunmetal eyelets secure the sheath together and allow the molle lock screws to act as tension control. A heat gun is used for final molding and making a thumb break that you push against to draw out the knife. The molle lock allows the sheath to be orientated any direction on a belt or molle type harness.<br />
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Finally I grind an initial edge on a slow speed wet stone, then hone it using a paper wheel and polishing compound. This one will shave a bit, but didn’t take it to razor edge as it would be hard to maintain in the field like that.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final product with kydex sheath, on its way to war right now.</td></tr>
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<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-73292365193173708412013-01-04T22:10:00.000-08:002013-01-04T22:10:10.902-08:00Bar stock to blades part 2Getting the rough shape finished is the easy part, it just takes time and wee bit of skill. But changing the rough bar stock to a blade is where the real patience and skill come into play. Again, I'm not a smith, just a patient hobbyist. I make most of my knives with a nearly flat grind that is slightly convex, sometimes referred to as a sabre grind that requires a slack belt to grind on. I add a secondary bevel at the last stage to ensure a shaving sharp edge that can be reproduced and touched up in the field.<br />
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During my last goat hunt, when my trophy had to be skinned and quartered on a 35 degree scree chute between ice and a cliff. To touch up my blade I just grabbed a rock by my feet that had a good course grit and touched up my edge so I could keep working safely. This is what a good field knife should be capable of. So that is the goal, how do we get there? <br /><br />First I flatten the bar stock to a universal thickness, removing smelting and rolling issues from the foundry. Once it is flat, I find the middle 1/16" and outline my grind pattern. I grind to the these lines so I have matching angle on both sides. It is easy to see if one side is 1/32" off from my grind line and to bring it where it needs to be. Sometimes 1095 can decarbonize in the open air forge so you need enough stock available to remove if this occurs and not loose shape.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outlining the grind layout. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here the center 1/16" is outlined</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filing groves in the thumbrest</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drilling holes in steel to pin the handles through</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-87rDaj0aXlc/UOe8A5b_nAI/AAAAAAAAAGo/d_VJxG5lMzQ/s1600/IMG_2272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-87rDaj0aXlc/UOe8A5b_nAI/AAAAAAAAAGo/d_VJxG5lMzQ/s400/IMG_2272.jpg" width="298" /></a>This is the finished grind on the blade before it is sent to heat treating out in my shed, which is located well away from my house. This is where your turn soft annealed steel to hardened steel. It requires heating the blade blank then quenching it in oil.<br />
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This requires scientific knowledge and welding gloves. When high carbon steel reaches the correct temperature it becomes non-magnetic. I have a magnet on my forge station that I test with. Once it reaches non magnetic stage, I soak at that temperature in the forge to ensure proper heating. Then you take the red hot steel and instantly plunge it into the oil. At this point the oil catches fire and the blade is rapidly cooled and hardened to somewhere around rc70 and to brittle to use. Now comes the crucial temper process. <br />
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To temper the steel you use the correct chart of time and temperature that will produce your preferred level of Rockwell Hardness (rc). This temper will turn your brittle steel into usable knife grade steel. Here are the two blanks that used to be shiny and have been oil quenched and now tempered to around 60rc.<br />
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Now comes the tough part in making a knife, finishing the grind, fitting the handle and polishing. Do you want a mirror finish or something for the field?<br />
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These knives have about 10hrs of labor invested so far and aren't quite halfway. <br />
<br />The one on the left will be a gift between warriors. My personal blade is on the right. Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-91630150918438255402013-01-01T17:20:00.001-08:002013-01-01T17:20:57.095-08:00Frontline OrderWell day one of '13 and I'm already back at making knives. A couple major things happened to help trigger this:<br />
1. Christmas is over and all my presents were made and delivered on time! <br />
2. I finished my fireplace after nine months! <br />
3. A Marine on the front lines put an order in.<br />
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#3 is where the motivation really came from to be honest. I apologize to all my other customers, but front line orders go to the front of the list AUTOMATICALLY. All other orders are put on hold. So if you really want a Knives of Malta original, just go to combat and place an order. I took this stance because this why I started making knives in the first place and <a href="http://www.randallknives.com/" target="_blank">Randall Knives</a> has the same policy. I'm a hobbyist, but if you need a knife maker to idolize, you could do worse. <br />
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So I thought what a great opportunity to share with everyone the steps it takes to get a knife to a warrior ASAP. Luckily I still have a piece of 1095 HC CRA in the shop. Well if you are going to make one prototype, then you might as well make two. This order was my favorite type, "Need a Utility knife for Afghanistan, do your thing." Meaning I have free reign and alot riding on this.<br />
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First step is to sketch a design in my notebook, luckily I had a rough idea for an all around survival/utility already in the works. I make the sketch on .25" grid for sizing, then trace and cut a template.<br />
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The page to the right has various sketches and the cutout paper templates at the bottom that I'll transfer to the bar stock. <br />
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I use a good 'ol fashion sharpie to trace the pattern onto the steel stock. I then rough cut them out to give me the basic shape. They then go to the grinder for final rough shaping. My cutting blade blew up and I only got two blanks cut today.<br />
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Sidebar: You can see my big Porter Cable grinder on my bench in the background and the blanks on the bench. The tool in the foreground is a 1"x42" belt sander from @ 1980. It removes alot of stock quickly and will remove your fingerprints if you aren't careful. I cobbled together a dust shield today out of scrap kydex. This keeps the mettle from hitting me in the face, always a plus. <br />
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Here are the two blanks finished with rough grinding and leveled using 100 grit. The next step will be to begin the grind of the edge bevel followed by heat treating and handle fitting. My goal is to get them in the post within two weeks. Overall length is 8.5" with a 4" blade 1.5" tall for reference. Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-81500333307789312892012-12-30T15:59:00.000-08:002013-10-11T16:21:22.183-07:00Three Finger SkinnerWhen I first moved to Alaska at the turn of the century I thought that bigger knives were better. I mean just look at the size of a moose, you must need a machete. Wrong, I find large knives to be cumbersome, heavy, and mostly unnecessary. Especially when it comes to skinning out game. Really for moose I prefer two knives and a saw. I carry a shorter knife for gutting/skinning (like the one below) and then a large butcher knife around 9" with some flex to the blade.<br />
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I have personally dispatched four moose and butchered nine including a 62" and 54" Yukon monster. So this isn't advice from an armchair cowboy. I've also have a room full of rugs that attest to my skinning of big game. Now, if you have a different method than mine, great, this is my opinion and nothing more.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three finger skinner, sole authorship from Knives of Malta</td></tr>
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I prefer short blade skinning knives with a really deep belly. I've used Outdoor Edge T-handle skinners for years with great success. But, like any hunter I always need a new knife or try a new idea. This is my first attempt at what I think is an ideal skinning knife. The handle is based on a three finger grip with the index finger resting on the top of the blade. I find this works well as it adds control and if you are going to cut accurately, just point your finger and the blade follows. I prefer the deep belly of this blade because that is were I do 90% of my skinning, with the straight section for general cutting/butchery. <br />
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Knife Specifications<br />
Blade Length 3.5"<br />
Overall Length 7.5"<br />
Steel 1095 5/32" thick<br />
Hardness HRC 59-61<br />
Handle Wenge<br />
Pins Nickel<br />
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I made a little kydex sheath with a standard MOLLE lock that will fit over belts or packs, etc. The blade grind is a sabre grind with a secondary bevel and it'll shave. I haven't used Wenge before so I'm interested to see how well it does in Alaska's saturated hunting grounds. This one isn't in my possession so I can't give a final report and am awaiting the owner to get it messy.<br />
<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-36191722850470563192012-12-23T18:17:00.002-08:002012-12-23T18:17:40.489-08:00You'll Shoot Your Eye Out!Ah the Christmas classic never gets old. If you have never wanted a Red Ryder BB gun for Christmas then I feel sorry for you. This was a right of passage for every kid I grew up with, but then again so was your first chainsaw. Which my brother promptly used to cut down a Christmas tree on top of me, ah youth! My goddaughters already have their first Red Ryder and dad has been teaching them to shoot, but unfortunately the stock is a bit long for them. So when I heard they were having trouble shooting I felt it was godfather duty to remedy that. I simply could cut down a stock Red Ryder but what fun is that? Nope, this was going to be a one off worthy of the little girls learning to shoot.<br />
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I had a nice piece of walnut in the shop that was about the correct width. I traced the stock onto the walnut and cut it out on the bandsaw and rounded it over on the router. Unfortunately it was just a bit thin, so I had to mill some 1/16" shims to blend in and fill the gaps. In the upper right you can see the rough shims being fit. The picture to the right shows the shims blended into the stock and fit.<br />
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For the the forearm I had to laminate the walnut to get the width built up. Here is the original and the laminate walnut, the grain was really tight so the seem just melted away. In hindsight I should have milled the inside channel before this, but as I've never made a gun stock I didn't know this. It worked but I found out why the router is dangerous when trying to channel. Chisels are much safer and it ended up being a near perfect fit after a few hours of learning the hard way. <br />
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Dry fit test before final polish with 400 grit and lots of poly to build up a durable finish. <br />
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Finished custom built Red Ryder! I used a wipe on Poly to build up a high gloss finish. First coat, then 400 grit, then using steel wool between the next six coats to really bring out the figure. Not the mostly highly figured piece of walnut I've found but a nice upgrade from the factory stock. This one is 1.75" shorter in the length of pull which should make practice much easier for them. Hey, if they want to come hunt with the godfather, they better be ready. I'd settle for just a canoe trip with them. </div>
<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-75947683699191798222012-12-04T23:20:00.001-08:002012-12-04T23:20:29.922-08:00Handmade Sgain Dubh<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">File worked spine starting to take shape.</td></tr>
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Knives that carry a history with them are my favorite type of blade and one would be hard pressed to find a better history than the Sgain Dubh from Scotland. My limited research and knowledge is that these knives translate to "black knife" and were worn inside the knee socks of highlanders. The "black" signified the dark handles that just poked out of the sock and blended in with the dark wool. This allowed a highlander to remain armed while being cordial and leaving his longer edged weapons from social gatherings.<br />
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Sgain Dubhs had a resurgence in the mid 19th century Victorian era when they became fashionable and quickly went from useful to ornate. I wanted to make a pair of Sgain Dubhs that stayed true to the original purpose of a deadly last ditch knife but look handsome as life is to short to own ugly knives. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both blades file worked</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duality, one piece of steel, one piece of wood. 2 knives.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heat Treating in forge</td></tr>
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I had just enough 1095 steel for one big knife or two small knives, so I decided to double my work load and make two matching Sgain Dubhs out of the same piece of steel. They bear different file patterns on the spine to distinguish them apart. Both were made from stock removal process and then triple heat treated in my mini forge and hot oil quenched to ensure proper strength. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heat treated, fitting blocks for handles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blades polished, handles roughed out</td></tr>
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After triple heat treating and oil quench the blades are double tempered at 400 degrees F for 2 hours at a time, resulting in a Rockwell Hardness near 60. These aren't every day use knives, but need a hard edge when called upon. I polished the blades to 1000 grit and then fit the Honduran Rosewood handles and nickel guards to each blade. These handles are extremely difficult to makes and keep symmetrical. After completing them I had a wee dram to celebrate.<br />
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These little knives were much more difficult than I thought and doubt I'll turn them into a regular production item as they are mainly for show and not much usage. I prefer to make knives that take a daily beating. But, true to form they are gorgeous and I will have a hard time parting with them as they were spoken for before they left the drawing table. <br />
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Finally I made simple heavy leather blade guards for each knife so that you can place the whole thing in your sock with only the top of the handle sticking out. Just grab the handle and the guard stays in place when you draw it out. Not the easiest thing to re-sheath but last ditch weapons are more about surprise than putting away. They will both shave if ever called upon to do so. <br />
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<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-84857284930984045052012-10-02T19:22:00.002-07:002012-10-02T19:22:30.374-07:00Live the DreamI moved to Alaska 13 years ago because it seemed that is where adventure still lived on the grand scale. There are those that purchase adventure by the weekend and find joy in not having to sacrifice and learn in order to build their skills. This is not me, I set out to learn all I could from those that lived the life already. Alaska is an unforgiving land that cares not if you live or perish. Nature does not take kindly to those that fail to prepare, even near civilization there are no guarantees. I got a taste for hunting the high country some years ago and it has plagued me ever since. It's addictive and the purest form of hunting that exists. This year was dedicated to the pursuit of mountain goat. My wife volounteered to hunt with methis year and act as Sherpa. We trained all season in the mountains and I shot hundreds of rounds practicing prone and sitting mimicking field conditions with my pack. It was the hardest hunt I've ever been on so far, and the most rewarding. I went out with 15 rounds and came home with 14 and a story. This is why I started Knives of Malta to make knives and tools that support those that make their own adventure.<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjEKTp6298c&sns=em" target="_blank">Goat Hunt in the Cugach Range</a><br />
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<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-21264589508985845262012-09-26T19:22:00.001-07:002012-09-26T19:22:56.998-07:00Knives for SoldiersTo say I have a fortunate life is an understatement, to say I call some amazing friends is even a bigger understatement. Many of my friends have served in the armed forces and many of them overseas. Much like my grandfather was given a knife before he left for France in WWII, I have taken it upon myself to send my friends over with a quality blade. It started with just buying nice production knives, and then grew to making partial custom knives, and finally producing sole authorship knives. Sole authorship is where I do everything myself, from forming the blade to heat treating and making sheaths. I mentioned a few months ago that if I had sponsorship I could provide many more soldiers with custom made knives. This was kind of a joke, more about my free time, but my incredible friends quickly responded with offers to sponsor knives for soldiers. Basically I would make a few knives for free to soldiers currently in uniform and others would pick up the tab. How awesome is that! I will give my time, others will provide the cost of materials and together we can give soldiers a quality knife and hopefully a heirloom. I have produced four knives to kick off this program, as that is all I have time for right now.<br />
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Want to sponsor one? Contact me directly as I have three of these left for sponsorship. Either I can choose a soldier from the many I know or you can. They can be any branch, guard, reserve, active, as long as they wear the uniform and will put the blade to good use. You can be anonymous, or a known donor. YOU CAN'T SPONSOR YOURSELF! Sorry, maybe another time. I will need to know the soldiers info and ship directly to them. If they can send a pic back to Knives of Malta with a proof of life, that is all I ask. <br />
<br />First Set: <br />
Name: Bushcraft Alaskan<br />
Thickness: 5/32" <br />
Steel: 1095 HC<br />
Grind: Scandi<br />
Blade Length: @ 4"<br />
Overall Length: @8.25" (one has a slightly small grip for medium sized hands)<br />
Hardness: 59-61 Rockwell<br />
Grips: G10 Micarta <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Second Set <br />
Name: LUK (light utility knife) <br />
Steel: 1095 HC<br />
Thickness: 5/32" <br />
Grind: Scandi<br />
Blade Length: 4"<br />
Overall Length: 8 (one has a slightly small grip for medium sized hands)<br />
Hardness: 59-61 Rockwell<br />
Grips: 550 Paracord<br />
Coating: Antique Rust Browning <br />
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<br />Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4255036988910762420.post-12221872711508686912012-06-12T20:13:00.001-07:002012-09-26T19:27:43.908-07:00Why make a knife?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first sole authorship knife</td></tr>
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Why in the world in this day in age when more custom knife makers and high end production knives exist than ever before would I choose to make rudimentary knives in my backyard? Unfortunately, or fortunately it comes down to friendship and valuing something that was made for you. It all started in 1943 when my grandfather Les Hayes was drafted into US Army and a friend made him a simple yet effective K-Bar style knife from a file with a leather wrapped handle. Les and the knife survived the war (even though the knife did try to kill him once) and both became a fixture in my life. He gave me the knife and his dog tags a few years before he passed on and both reside in a place of honor in my home today. Now it is my generation’s turn to fight and many of my friends have answered the call. It started with buying each one of them a quality knife that fit their personality and tasks. Then came my friend Stew’s turn for deployment and while searching for the knife that fit his personality (a monumental task in itself) he mentioned.. “It’d be cool to have a knife made for you, not just a production blade off the shelf.” Being one for a challenge, and underestimating how hard this could be, I decided to make him a knife for war. This couldn’t be any field knife; it had to fit Stew’s profile of the gentleman warrior. He would not be out of place leading a cavalry charge on horseback instead of in his Huey. I decided on the classic Sykes Fairbairn style fighting knife, but it had to be something more. I couldn’t make a blade at the time so I found a premade blade that had the correct pattern. As he was going to Iraq I thought it only fitting that the knife have a little Iraqi flair and used some marble brought back from Saddam’s palace to make the handle. All in all I spent about 100 hours making this knife (and even carry a scar from it) and didn’t even have to forge it. Why? Ultimately it is only an object that can be lost or destroyed. Well, somebody thought enough of Les to make him a knife, and he held onto it his whole life and god willing I will as well, and so on. What if I could do the same?Maltahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12868866426404802622noreply@blogger.com0